Colombia Highlights

Places To See

Parque Nacional Tayrona

Tayrona, with its beaches set in deep bays and shaded with coconut palms, is one of Colombia's most popular national parks. Some beaches are bordered by coral reefs, and there's some great snorkeling, but beware of the treacherous offshore currents. The region was once home to Tayrona Indians and remnants of their civilization have been found in the park.

Santuario de las Lajas

On a stone bridge spanning a deep gorge, the neo-Gothic Santuario de Las Lajas is a strange but spectacular site, as well as a hugely popular destination for pilgrims in need of a miracle. They place their faith in the Virgin Mary, whose image is believed to have emerged from a huge vertical rock 45m (147ft) above the river sometime in the mid-18th century.

Plaques of thanksgiving line the walls of the canyon, many from prominent Colombian politicians.

The church is built directly against the rocky wall of the gorge where the image appeared. A gilded painting of the Virgin, accompanied by Santo Domingo and San Francisco, has been painted directly on the rocks just to be sure there is no confusion. The first chapel was constructed in 1803, though today's church, designed by Nariño architect Lucindo Espinoza, was built between 1926 and 1944.

Ciudad Perdida

Ciudad Perdida, aka Lost City, was built between the 11th and 14th centuries and is one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas. There are about 150 stone terraces, which once served as foundations for houses. It's hidden deep in thick forest amid rugged mountains, far from any access roads - the return hike to the city takes six days.

Although the city was built between the 11th and 14th centuries, its origins are much older, going back to perhaps the 7th century. Spread over an area of about 2 sq km (1.2 sq mi), it is the largest Tayrona city found so far, and appears to have been their major political and economic center. Some 2000 to 4000 people are believed to have lived here.

During the Conquest, the Spaniards wiped out the Tayronas, and their settlements disappeared without a trace under lush tropical vegetation. Ciudad Perdida lay hidden for four centuries, until its discovery by guaqueros (treasure hunters) in 1975.

Archaeological digs have uncovered some Tayrona objects (fortunately, the guaqueros didn't manage to take everything) - mainly various kinds of pottery (both ceremonial and utensil), goldwork and unique necklaces made of semiprecious stones. Some of these objects are on display in the Museo del Oro in Santa Marta and Bogotá.

Pre-Departure Information

When to go?

The most pleasant time to visit Colombia is in the dry season, between December and March or July and August, particularly if you plan on hiking. It also gives visitors a better chance to savor local cultural events, as many festivals and fiestas take place during these times.

Apart from the weather, you might also consider Colombian holiday periods. There are basically three high seasons when Colombians rush to travel: from late December to mid-January, during Semana Santa (Holy Week; March or April), and from mid-June to mid-July. Also take note of three-day weekends, when urban dwellers rush to rural getaways, such as Villa de Leyva; and regional celebrations, such as Carnaval in Barranquilla. During these periods transport gets more crowded, hotels tend to fill up faster and prices may rise, so you'll have to pre-plan your trip and do more legwork to find somewhere to stay. But you'll also enjoy more contact with traveling Colombians, whose relaxed, holiday spirit is infectious.

Travel Visa Overview

Nationals of some countries, including most of Western Europe, the Americas, Japan, Australia and New Zealand, don't need a visa to enter Colombia. It's a good idea to check this before leaving, though, as visa regulations change frequently. All visitors get an entry stamp or a print in their passport from DAS (the security police responsible for immigration) upon arrival at any international airport or land border crossing - it says how many days you can stay in the country. The maximum allowed is 90 days, but DAS officials often stamp 60 or even just 30 days. Make sure you get an entry stamp or you'll have troubles later. Official money changers and banks will want to see your entry stamp, as will police if there are any problems. When departing the country, you'll also have to pay a fine and get a salvoconducto from a DAS office if you don't have a stamp. Similarly, make sure you have a departure stamp oryou'll have trouble the next time around.

You're entitled to a 30-day extension on your stay, which can be obtained from DAS in any departmental capital. The additional 30 days begin from the end of the visa already stamped in your passport (so there's no need to wait to the last minute). Most travelers apply for an extension in Bogotá.

Electricity

110V

60Hz

Electrical Plugs

Japanese-style plug with two parallel flat blades

American-style plug with two parallel flat blades above a circular grounding pin

Health Information

Cholera

This diarrheal disease can cause rapid dehydration and death. Cholera is caused by a bacteria, Vibrio cholerae. It's transmitted from person to person by direct contact (often via healthy carriers of the disease) or via contaminated food and water. It can be spread by seafood, including crustaceans and shellfish, which get infected via sewage.

Cholera exists where standards of environmental and personal hygiene are low. Every so often there are massive epidemics, usually due to contaminated water in conditions where there is a breakdown of the normal infrastructure.

The time between becoming infected and symptoms appearing is usually short, between one and five days. The diarrhea starts suddenly, and pours out of you. It's characteristically described as 'rice water' diarrhea because it is watery and flecked with white mucus. Vomiting and muscle cramps are usual, but fever is rare. In its most serious form, it causes a massive outpouring of fluid (up to 20l a day). This is the worst case scenario - only about one in 10 sufferers get this severe form.

It's a self-limiting illness, meaning that if you don't succumb to dehydration, it will end in about a week without any treatment.

You should seek medical help urgently; in the meantime, start re-hydration therapy with oral re-hydration salts. You may need antibiotic treatment with tetracycline, but fluid replacement is the single most important treatment strategy in cholera.

Prevention is by taking basic food and water precautions, avoiding seafood and having scrupulous personal hygiene. The currently available vaccine is not thought worthwhile as it provides only limited protection for a short time.

Hepatitis

Several different viruses cause hepatitis; they differ in the way that they are transmitted. The symptoms in all forms of the illness include fever, chills, headache, fatigue, feelings of weakness and aches and pains, followed by loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, dark urine, light-colored feces, jaundiced (yellow) skin and yellowing of the whites of the eyes.

There are 6 known types of viral hepatitis: A, B, C, D, E and G. G is not dangerous. A and E are passed on by the fecal-oral route of transmission; there is a vaccine. Seek medical advice, but there is not much you can do apart from resting, drinking lots of fluids, eating lightly and avoiding fatty foods. A and E cause an acute illness, but you will recover fully from it.

B and D are passed on via blood, saliva, semen and vaginal fluids. They can be passed on by close contact, sexual contact, and blood-to-blood contact. The symptoms of hepatitis B may be more severe than type A and the disease can lead to long-term problems such as chronic liver damage, liver cancer or a long-term carrier state. There is a vaccine.

Hepatitis C is only passed on from blood-to-blood contact. There is no vaccine.

Malaria

This serious and potentially fatal disease is spread by mosquito bites. If you are traveling in endemic areas it is extremely important to avoid mosquito bites and to take tablets to prevent this disease. Symptoms range from fever, chills and sweating, headache, diarrhea and abdominal pains to a vague feeling of ill-health. Seek medical help immediately if malaria is suspected. Without treatment malaria can rapidly become more serious and can be fatal.

If medical care is not available, malaria tablets can be used for treatment. You should seek medical advice, before you travel, on the right medication and dosage for you.

If you do contract malaria, be sure to be re-tested for malaria once you return home as you can harbor malaria parasites in your body even if you are symptom free.

Travelers are advised to prevent mosquito bites at all times. The main messages are: wear light-colored clothing; wear long trousers and long-sleeved shirts; use mosquito repellents containing the compound DEET on exposed areas (prolonged overuse of DEET may be harmful, especially to children, but its use is considered preferable to being bitten by disease-transmitting mosquitoes); avoid perfumes and aftershave. Use a mosquito net impregnated with mosquito repellent (permethrin) - it may be worth taking your own.

Rabies

This is a fatal viral infection. Many animals can be infected (such as dogs, cats, bats and monkeys) and it's their saliva that is infectious. Any bite, scratch or even lick from a warm-blooded, furry animal should be cleaned immediately and thoroughly. Scrub with soap and running water, and then apply alcohol or iodine solution.

Medical help should be sought promptly to receive a course of injections to prevent the onset of symptoms and death.

Tetanus

This infection is caused by a germ that lives in soil and in the feces of horses and other animals. It enters the body via breaks in the skin, so the best prevention is to clean all wounds promptly and thoroughly with an antiseptic. Use antibiotics if the wound becomes hot or pus-filled, or throbs. The first symptom may be discomfort in swallowing, or stiffening of the jaw and neck; this is followed by painful convulsions of the jaw and whole body. The disease can be fatal, but is preventable with vaccination.

Typhoid

Also known as enteric fever, typhoid is transmitted via food and water, and symptomless carriers, especially when they're working as food handlers, are an important source of infection. Typhoid is caused by a type of salmonella bacteria, Salmonella typhi. Paratyphoid is a similar but milder disease.

The symptoms are variable, but you almost always get a fever and headache to start with, which initially feels very similar to flu, with aches and pains, loss of appetite and general malaise. Typhoid may be confused with malaria. The fever gradually rises during a week. Characteristically your pulse is relatively slow for someone with a fever. Other symptoms you may have are constipation or diarrhea and stomach pains.

You may feel worse in the second week, with a constant fever and sometimes a red skin rash. Other symptoms you may have are severe headache, sore throat and jaundice. Serious complications occur in about one in 10 cases, including, most commonly, damage to the gut wall with subsequent leakage of the gut contents into the abdominal cavity.

Seek medical help for any fever (38°C/100°F and higher) that does not improve after 48 hours. Typhoid is a serious disease and is not something you should consider self-treating.

Re-hydration therapy is important if diarrhea has been a feature of the illness, but antibiotics are the mainstay of treatment.

Yellow fever

Yellow fever is transmitted through the bite of an infected mosquito. There is an effective vaccine against yellow fever, so if you have been immunized, you can basically rule this disease out. Symptoms of yellow fever range from a mild fever which resolves over a few days to more serious forms with fever, headache, muscle pains, abdominal pain and vomiting. This can progress to bleeding, shock and liver and kidney failure. The liver failure causes jaundice, or yellowing of your skin and the whites of your eyes - hence the name. There's no specific treatment but you should seek medical help urgently if you think you have yellow fever.

Altitude sickness

In the thinner atmosphere above 3000m (9842ft), or even lower in some cases, lack of oxygen causes many individuals to suffer headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, physical weakness and other symptoms that can lead to very serious consequences, especially if combined with heat exhaustion, sunburn or hypothermia. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) can affect anyone and care should be taken to avoid ascending mountain peaks above 3000m too quickly. Sleep at a lower altitude than the greatest height reached during the day, if possible.

Weather Information

Colombia's proximity to the equator means its temperature varies little throughout the year. However, the temperature does change with altitude, which creates various climatic zones ranging from hot lowlands to freezing Andean peaks - you can experience completely different climates within just a couple of hours of travel. As a general rule, the temperature falls about 6ºC (43ºF) with every 1000m (3281ft) increase in altitude.

Colombia has two seasons: verano or la sequia (summer, or dry), and invierno or temproada de lluvia (winter, or wet). The pattern of seasons varies in different parts of the country, and has been greatly affected over recent years by El Niño and La Niña. For example, in the Andean region there are two dry and two rainy seasons per year. The main dry season falls between December and March, with a shorter and less dry period between July and August. This general pattern varies throughout the Andean zone.

The weather in Los Llanos has a more definite pattern: there is one dry season, between December and March, while the rest of the year it's wet. The Amazon doesn't have a uniform climate but is generally quite wet year-round.

History and Culture

Pre-20th Centure History

Pre-Columbian cultures existed in scattered pockets of the Andean region and on the Pacific and Atlantic coasts. Among the most outstanding were the Tayrona, Sinú, Muisca, Quimbaya, Tierradentro and San Agustín. Many of the tribes produced accomplished goldwork and pottery, and some left behind burial chambers and rock paintings which have helped anthropologists piece together their cultures.

Alonso de Ojeda, a companion of Christopher Columbus, landed on the Guajira Peninsula in 1499. The wealth of the local Indians promulgated the myth of El Dorado, and the shores of present-day Colombia became the target of numerous Spanish expeditions. Though they initially tolerated the Spaniards, the Indians rebelled when the colonists tried to enslave them and confiscate their lands. However, it wasn't long before much of the country had been conquered by the Spanish, and a number of towns, including Cartagena (founded in 1533), were prospering. In 1544, the country was incorporated into the viceroyalty of Peru, where it remained until 1739 when it became a part of New Granada (comprising the territories of present-day Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador and Panama).

Along with slavery, the Spanish monopoly over commerce, taxes and duty slowly gave rise to protest, particularly towards the end of the 18th century. During this period, the first stirrings of national autonomy occurred. It wasn't until 1819, however, that the Venezuelan liberator Simón Bolívar and his army appeared and independence was achieved. Ten years of uneasy confederation with Venezuela and Ecuador followed in the form of Gran Colombia, until regional differences between the three finally undermined the union.

Political currents born in the independence struggle were formalized in 1849 when two parties (dominated by creole elites) were established: the Conservatives (with centralist tendencies) and the Liberals (with federalist leanings). The parties divided the nation into partisan camps, eventually heralding insurrection, civil chaos and war. In the course of the 19th century, the country experienced no less than 50 insurrections and eight civil wars, culminating in the bloody War of a Thousand Days in 1899.

Modern History

The struggle between the Conservatives and the Liberals broke out again in 1948 with La Violencia, the most destructive of Colombia's civil wars in which nearly 300,000 people died. It soon developed revolutionary overtones and both parties decided to support a military coup to retain power. The coup, led by General Gustavo Rojas in 1953, was shortlived, falling in 1957 when the two parties (now the National Front) agreed to share power for the next 16 years.

The National Front collapsed in 1974 when Liberal President Alfonso López Michelsen was elected, but a modified version of the two-party system continued for another 17 years. Meanwhile, the political climate encouraged the emergence of left-wing guerrilla groups such as the National Liberation Army (ELN), Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the April 19 Movement (M19), who successfully undermined government power.

Another threat was the setting of paramilitary death squads against any group that opposed the drug cartels in Medellín and Cali and by 1990, escalating violence threatened to bring the country to a standstill. In 1991, a new constitution strengthened government control. In June of that year, Pablo Escobar, head of the Medellín cocaine cartel and alleged mastermind of the terror campaign, surrendered. He escaped a year later, but was located and killed in December 1993.

Drug trafficking continues to grow (courtesy of the pragmatic Cali cartel), bringing in an estimated six billion US dollars a year. The arrest of Cali cartel leader Gilberto Rodriguez Orejuela in June 1995 was a feather in the government's cap, but did little to alter the dynamics of the drug trade. Then-president, Ernesto Samper, spent much of his last years in office refuting allegations that drug money financed his election campaign. Samper's Liberal Party succesor, Horacio Serpa, lost the 1998 election to independent conservative Andres Pastrana, who had previously blown the whistle on Samper's Cali connections.

Recent History

In May 2002, moderate-right independent Álvaro Uribe was elected president. A fierce adversary of the guerrillas, the war intensified in his first few months. In a 2003 security plan, he vowed to reinforce Colombia's security and eradicate drug crops. His fight, however, is far from over - traffickers have found new routes out of Colombia and right-wing paramilitaries are gaining a stronger foothold in urban areas. Colombia is also home to 3 million internally displaced people.

The Constitutional Court amended laws so Uribe could stand for re-election in 2006. As expected, he was re-elected.

Colombia gets about 740 million US dollars a year from Uncle Sam. The US has agreed to help demobilize former members of groups on the US State Department's terrorism list. It is also behind an aid package to spray coca fields and fight drug trafficking. However, farmers are simply moving to other areas to cultivate and, lately, even planting coca in national parks where laws prevent spraying.